Yes to the lights. Running 20/4 500ppfd is playing it safe and 600 is starting to get into “aggressive” territory.
VPD is humidity and temp. In veg I like to be 75-78f and 68-73 rh%. Targeting .8-.9 VPD.
4 Likes
Any update on the lady?
2 Likes
Yes!
I was gonna post an update soon, I really think things are taking a sharp turn from the better.
The leaves have flattened, and the lighter green is beginning to come back and she’s growing much faster now.
The only issue i have is my roots are pretty splotchy brown in areas. In some areas they are pearl white, no smell, no slime. But they have a little staining and it’s more of a worry than a problem, but overall I think she’s bouncing back.
Thanks guys
4 Likes
Keep using hydroguard or whatever you are using to for root health and don’t worry about staining. Rotting yes worry, but a lot of organics can stain roots. I’m glad to hear the good news turn around. Ill go thru my old notes on hydroponics, that’s what I started in over 20yrs ago, but I found some great products that make the whole process less stressful. Like hydroguard for instance
2 Likes
Looks great, Isn’t it great how fast they can respond to a correction in hydro!
I have similar thoughts about Botinicare HydroGuard IMPO don’t do hydro without it!
4 Likes
Okay guys I’m having troubles again. I’m just not sure what’s going wrong.
Here are some recent pics
She really seems to keep growing in bursts, and when I raise the ppm, she usually reacts negatively.
I switched nutrient lines mid grow, which i know comes with risks. I’m running the cultivator nation from fox farms now, it’s a 3 part mix.
at first it seemed like she was loving it, now the ppm is steadily rising instead of falling and she just looks kinda sad
3 Likes
What % of the manufacturers recommended dose per gal are you giving? Ppm/ec could be getting too high as the water gets low and is drank up,transpired,etc. Ph could be fluctuating? If it’s doing better with lower doses of food, I’d give it less food. See how that goes. I mean the plant looks okay, pretty bushy, but healthy. Since growing autos I have never had to go over 50% manufacturers recommended feeding dose of anything. I have had to lower doses for sensitive plants that get burned/show toxicity.
2 Likes
Stick to whatever recipes you are using that are working. You won’t have to increase the ppm if it’s happy and getting bigger. As it gets bigger it will drink more, taking in more nutrients as needed. Hope that helps
2 Likes
When the environment is hot and or dry the plants transpire more and take up more water.
This can lead to drastic changes in the res or worse, toxicity because the increased water equals increased transport of minerals.
If its hot/dry the plants need weaker solution.
The good news is things change quickly in DWC. Address a problem and see changes often the next day.
2 Likes
I’ve applied what I know. I changed the reservoir with lower nutes again. Lowered temps and humidity to around 70f and 55rh.
She just keeps seemingly getting worse. Idk what to do anymore..
My ph is very constant. Ppm isn’t fluctuating. Temps are good. Water temp holding 69 almost 24/7.
Giving it around 450 PPFD at 2’.
I’m sorry guys but plz help lol
2 Likes
So what I’ve done today is:
Change res again
Add h202 at 10 ml per gallon
add little no no nutrients (.5 ml per gallon with respect to the ratios of the 3 part)
added 2.5 ml of diamond nectar
Added another airstone and pump
1 Like
Post photos of the roots for us to see.
With DWC its often the root zone. I only use peroxide for cleaning buckets and tools now. HOCL is way more effective and non toxic to plants and humans. (Hypochlorous acid)
High temps inside the bucket can encourage disease.
When you use peroxide bleach or hocl you kill all the beneficial microbes. After treatment, you’ll have to reapply them. Add enzymes to help clean up the dead stuff.
If the roots are very badly diseased you might have to prune the roots. Scary, but it could save a dying plant.
She looks better than a lot of mine. Srsly though, when the first big leaves start to look wonky I pull them off. They’ve outlived their usefulness and are blocking air flow now.
2 Likes
75-78F and 65-70 RH% until the end of stretch. At 70f your plants metabolism is pretty low. Are you basing your res temp off the air temp?
@Mara_Cachafa is on to something as well. You should remove a few of the old lower leaves allowing better airflow and helping with transpiration.
I would also like to see the roots.
4 Likes
Once you get the environment lined out and she can function properly then figure out the nutes. You will also be able to increase ppfd once everything is working in harmony. The first choice at the link is the hydro feed schedule. I would take @KingRatt advice and start at half strength until she is back on her feet. After that she should be able to take full strength but take that with a grain of salt due to me never actually using the nutes. I just trust the manufactures know what they are talking about.
Fix the temp and humidity.
With airstones the res is safe up to 72f but you can get a res chiller for better long term solution.
Do some pruning to improve airflow.
Once shes able to push and pull liquids again get the nutrient mix right at a decreased strength.
After 3-5 days or she is perky and visibly recovered you can increase nute strength and ppfd.
3 Likes
What temp is the water in your reservoir?
2 Likes
Those dont look bad. Whats the blue stuff and should it be that concentrated while on the roots?
1 Like
1 Like
Pretty consistent around 68-72
1 Like