Paulg’s Earthbox Jr run

Next up; Sawney SOS. @SAWNEY-BEAN . I started two seeds in a compostable cup, I transplanted the seedling into my EBjr. I use soil from my worm bin. Top dressed with EWC, BaS Craft Blend and Big 6 with some cooked rice. Day five, she gets two ounces of water direct to the cup, Day ten eight ounces of water into the reservoir to wet the wicking areas. Day 14, a half gallon to the reservoir. Moving forward, I will fill the reservoir completely, as needed ,trying to let the reservoir go dry for about 12 hours before replenishing. I’ll be added LAB to the dechloraminated water.

So far she’s looking healthy. I’ve grown Sawney’s Lecter and Boomstick and had great results. Since then I’ve moved over to the EBjr with excellent results. I’m excited to see how SOS (cheese, chronic and white widow) turns out.

Thank you Sawney for the “gifts” and inspiration! @WildBill , thanks for your continued guidance!

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Should prove interesting! :wink:

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Right on! That Blueberry Mazar is gonna be tasty!!! And good luck with the SOS!!! You are gonna be in for real treat!! It’s rad seeing how you grow!

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Thanks KR! Final tally on the Blueberry Mazar: 6 oz. Still curing but expect some good smoke! The three EBjr grows have dramatically increased my yields. I used to get 50-100 grams average, my last three EBjr grows averaged 180 grams. Fingers crossed for SOS!

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That’s decent for sure! Good luck bud, you’re just gonna better and so is the weed!

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6 zips is nice! You run airstones in your res? Is that new or have you been doing that?

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Last run I lowered the air stone through the fill tube. I like the set up. Much more elegant.

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Day 21: I upped the light to 30 DLI (18/6). I gave her a top watering with LAB. She’s remains unmolested, no topping or defoal, yet. I’m going to try some fermented coffee grounds for a N boost. I bent her over . More to follow.

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Today’s upgrade: the cover is an integral part of the EBjr grow. It works well but it’s a pain when top dressing or watering. I had a plastic shop fabricate a two piece plexiglass cover. I added some dowel pins to hold it in place and covered with aluminum foil tape. Looks good, back to taking it easy and not obsessing about my tent!

@WildBill

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That’s some interesting thinking out of the box!
That could be interesting if you get a reflected light boost.
Check to see if you get any heat absorption from the light. I wouldn’t foresee it causing any problems, but two or three degree increase would actually be good for microbial activity.

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Day 28: I’ve been rotating adding LAB and fermented coffee extract to dechloraminated water. I’d hoped to see her stretch a little more but compared to last week’s post she’s grown and looking healthy. Thanks for stopping by.

@SAWNEY-BEAN

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I removed the lowest node on each branch and removed some inner fan leafs. Better air flow and hopefully focusing growth on the upper nodes. At least that’s the plan!

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Im learning about earthboxes. The juniors seem like a good idea. Could probably easy fit 4 of em in a 4x4 right?

Im pulling up a chair for this grow. Btw the blueberry mazaar looked nice.

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Use the juniors for smaller autos and regular earth boxes for your larger autos.
You can easily run four regulars in a 4x4 tent…two plants per box.

Earthboxes are just plain easy way to grow cannabis. I basically follow Jeremy of Build A Soil method of growing with earth boxes, but I put my own little twist to it.

The differences are very small but it’s mainly the timing that is key. I mainly came up with it with autos in mind.

I now sprout all my seeds in a rooting puck inside a AC Infinity humidity Dome with light and heating mat. You can also direct plant into Dixie cups to germinate.
Above all with autos, continued root growth is key. I transplant my seedlings very early, well before any crazy root growth.
I pot up my Earthbox the day of transplant. The media that using is brought up to proper moisture level in a tote. The water used to moisturize the media As my witch’s brew of various bacterial inoculates and growth hormones. You can use either one of the more popular inoculants.
Fill up the Earth box,pack the wicking areas and leave room for top dressings. Apply my first round of top dressings, leaving an area for the transplant.
Plant the seedling, moisten the top dressings and settle the transplant and cut the X in the cover and install the cover.
You can lightly mist the soil at the transplant, but do nothing for 5 or 6 days. Put down 500 milliliters down the tube. It should soak it up really quick. This helps establish the wicking area with the root system. Three or four days later add 1000 milliliters. It may or may not suck that up very quickly but should within a few hours.

At the time of that second watering, you should be seeing signs of really good growth. They graduated watering it is designed to start the route and relationship and keeping the media at the best moisture level, with the main intent of not being too wet for the plant at that particular life cycle.
So on roughly day 14 of transplant, you should be able to add a half gallon. Once that shows the reservoir being dry, 12 hours or so later you can fill the reservoir full with a gallon.
This will be your procedure until harvest, once you see the reservoir is dry, 12 hours later you can add water. Here’s a skill that will make it very easy on you when choosing the time to water. After your first full gallon watering, Watch closely for when the Reservoir just becomes dry. You then pick up one end of the box to get a feel for the weight. That is your fully saturated weight. Now 12 hours later just before you water, pick up one end and note the weight. That is the weight when you need to water. You really don’t need to look down the tube to know what to do.

For autos, I top dress one week after seeing the first signs of flower. And that’s it.
Just subscribe to Jeremy and looked through all their videos. You got a lot of good information on the Earth boxes.

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That’s my basic program. I could be better at working the 12 hour interval. I used to try growing four plants in my 2.3x2.3 tent, but with the EBjr and scrog net that wouldn’t work. So, I could see four EBjr in a 4x but if you’re scrogging it will be difficult to defoliate or work with your plants.

I will say, since moving to the EBjr I’ve had excellent results. My harvests have dramatically increased.

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Wouldn’t you say it was a lot easier grow also?

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Oh ya! I feel like the Maytag repairman of cannabis! So, little to do. Another benefit, I haven’t had any pest issues. Maybe Ive just been lucky, but I think the cover keeps unwanted critters at bay.

The two other factors in my success are: embracing scrog and organic farming. Building your own soil is easy, fun and well worth the effort. There are tons of YouTube videos available. Build a Soil, Korean Natural Farming (KNF), LAB (lactic acid bacteria) and worm bins are great places to start your YouTube searches. Red wigglers will soon be your best friend!

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Day 35: I did a good bit of deflation. She’s not really stretching as much as Id like. Maybe she’ll just be short and stocky. I did have a little lighting booboo. The timer was in the “on” mode ,not auto timer mode. So, she was getting 24/0 instead of my preferred 18/6. Oops. Continuing to feed her coffee fermented (N).

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Day 42: lots of bud sites developing. I did some major defoal but it grew right back. More to come to keep the light penetrating deep inside. I noticed a lot of the lower nodes are developing nicely. I wonder if the reflective cover is helping underneath? Still feeding high nitrogen fertilizers. Getting ready of the flower stage top feed (BaS bloom, compost and EWC). Thanks for stopping by!

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Day 45: I pulled her out and gave her the second (and last) top dress for flowering. EWC, compost and BAS Build a Bloom nutes. I abandoned the scrog net. She’s not growing upwards. That said, I’m happy with the bud site development. She will be short but mighty! Really nice sweet citrus odor.

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