Take 2
Today will be day 1. I am not changing anything, it’s done me good so far, with this being an exception. But here she is in all of her glory:
Thanks for stopping by 
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I wouldn’t be feeding it anything for 3-4 weeks. Then if you wanna go more organic leaning get some growganica or organics alive. You’ll want some benificials too, something like organic rev, em1, or growganica microbe tea. You’ll also probably want water soluble mychorhazae, if you’re medium drys out to much whatever is in there will die off and you’ll want to reintroduce them. If you want to get real fancy young green coconut water powder the first 3-4 weeks does them wonders, super high in cytokins awesome for early growth above and below the soil. If don’t want to mess with organics just find a 2 part or 3 part salt program, there’s a mess of them kosher grow, sensitive series, cultivator series, crop salts, canna a.and b, general hydro, advanced pH perfect, lotus, there’s a bunch. My favorites are kosher grow silica and base/veg/bloom + cali magic 1-0-0 cal mag + general hydroponics diamond nectar + success nutrients game time and if I can ever find it local somewhere again vitamino. I run dwc but the same type of thing can work in soil. If you run salts in soil if it’s a longer finishing auto might have to do an actual flush where you run 4-5x the volume of the container worth of plane water through the medium to dissolve and flush the salts out then immediately follow it with a feed.
Both organics and salt when done correctly will give the same results quality and flavor wise. Organic inputs are generally more expensive, and take a while before they are available to the plants, with good microbes and benificial bacteria colonies most water soluble stuff you’ll see in the plants within a couple days, if it’s scratch in about a week, bad microbe and benificial bacteria colonies could be a week or two before you notice anything that’s why a lot of people say have to stay 2 weeks ahead of the plants with organic nutrition. With salts what you give them is available now as a result they generally grow a little quicker and bigger with salts especially if you’re in coco, or dwc, or rockwool or something.
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Thanks!
My go to for a few years has been the Fox Farms trio. No complaints at all with size. After this experiment, I will probably go back to using the trio again.
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Day 3
She’s getting her first set of real leaves coming in. I am hoping I get it right this time and not stunt her.
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Get it! Reset is just a temporary setback.
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Stoked for you to get going again so quick! I’m thinking of adopting @Farmer.HatBeard ‘s style for my breeding project. Basically he uses a super soil mix, full strength on the bottom 50% and seed starter on the top 50% and just water. Maybe one or two top dressings for heavy feeders. And this dudes winning awards!!! It might be a little more expensive as I will not be recycling soil, but it might not as I also won’t be buying many/any nutrients. Trying to dial in a more simple way of growing for seed making since I’m not going for flower production and max yield I think I can dial it back a bit. I will be using fox farm happy frog and ocean forest to start out with since I already know fox farm. As opposed to the Stonington and seed starter that Mr. Hatbeard uses. It’s just not available where I’m at. I’ve actually been growing the extra sprouts at my kids moms house in organic miracle grow. In two gallon fabric pots, in the south facing window, with tap water only, each plant is producing about an ounce dry. And the quality is still awesome too! It started as an experiment but now that’s what keeps my kids mom stoned and I’m even making some beans this round. There are a million ways to skin a cat, in my experience there is only one way to grow weed. And that’s however it works for you lol. Many “experts” told me I couldn’t grow with my tap water, ppm way too high, 440ppm average. I figured it out, got a water report and researched nutrients that would work in my situation. I’m pulling at and over two pounds every 8wks in my 3x3 tent and get over a pound consistently in my 2x2s so if there is a will, there is a way. In my case the high ppms are from calcium carbonate and manganese and magnesium. I researched nutrients that didn’t have any of those added in. It took a few grows to get everything dialed but there is always a way.
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@KingRatt what did you end up finding that worked with your water? I am on a well and know its calcium is high.
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The fox farm soil trio has no added calcium and very low mag, I use botanicare silca blast, no added cal/mag, mega crop sea K, and mega crop Bud Explosion, ful-power for fulvic/humic, and snow storm ultra. I also use a product called pond start for de-chlorination de-chloramine duties and . None of those products have any added calcium and work very well for me. If you want I can send you my recipes for each stage, seedling-finish. I also use Great White for mycos and bennies
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Ya, that would be great if you could send that to me!
I have been a fan of fox farm trio and it’s my go to.
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I made my Mama cheat sheets on index cards, I’ll have send me pics and get em over to you tonight!
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When I first transitioned to organics and soil I had to learn the hard way, was getting crazy lockouts and stuff, once that starts youre just chasing the fix til finish, it sux! Too much cal/mag will lock out P and show as deficiencies, and without knowing what’s what can lead to all kinds of problems! Learning the difference between lockouts and deficiencies is good to know, usually lockouts will show up soon after feeding, where deficiencies are more gradual and can be remedied quickly. You’ll know the difference the way the plant responds to what you are doing. Don’t know if I’m making sense but I hope it helps.
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Her you go homie, these are all measurements per gal. Should leave you at a reasonable ec/ppm level and has a full spectrum of micros and macros without any added calcium. I also water to run off with plain ph’d water once midway thru the grow and once or twice at finish to eliminate any build up in the soil. Also a couple weeks before finish I water once with more mycos/beneficials from Great White and a little black strap molasses to keep them fed and active during finish. I never go more than a Tbsp of molasses per gallon as I does have calcium and magnesium and other stuff in it. But I find it really helps the mycos and bennies when I don’t over do it. Hope this helps bro! I feed every watering from about 1-2wks after potting up, except for those few flushes.
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I also stop the bud explosion a week or two before finish and will sometimes start it in early flower if buds are ready for it. That’s just a general cheat sheath I made for my Mama, but feel free to adjust bloom boosters and such to your own liking.
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@KingRatt wow! Thank you!!!
I’m a nerd, I read directions and go by the book…my wife hates it, but it’s who I am…
And this is perfect, a detailed recipe I can follow.
Next step, assemble the ingredients.
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Also, I almost never have to PH, I check but this recipe leaves me in the perfect range about 95% of the time. I only have to adjust when our tap water fluctuates.
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Honestly you can start with the trio and get amazing results just with that. I recycle my soil, so I add back in silica and fulvics and mycos and such. I’ve used Snow storm Ultra for years and years, I’ve done plenty of side by side tests and the plants that get the snow storm ultra(triacontanol) are much more vigorous and frosty and solid at harvest. It’s extracted from alfalfa. The sea K and Bud explosion aren’t necessary either but I do notice small improvements and it’s super cheap if you get the “free” samples fromega crop lol.
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It’s a pretty mild feed regimen at basically 30-50% manufacturers recommended doses, but I haven’t had any deficiencies and seems plenty for the autos I’ve grown. Also mild enough to allow for a beautiful fade at the end ! Fox farm has a rad feed schedule and they don’t take away all the N during Bloom which I like. It’s really well rounded.
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